Video of pruning roses, how to cover roses for the winter

Video of pruning roses, how to cover roses for the winter


Video of trimming and covering roses for the winter. How should roses be pruned correctly, should it be done, and if so, when? What is the best way to cover the roses so that they overwinter easily?

Video of pruning and covering roses

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Pruning milkweed
Currant pruning

Preparing and covering roses for the winter

Preparing roses for winter is especially important in regions where the climate is quite cool. If it is not carried out correctly, it can lead to the death of flowers. Today's popular hybrids and varieties of garden roses can no longer go into a dormant state on their own. That is why, even in late autumn, their stems are covered with foliage, and also flowers along with buds often flaunt on them at this time.

With the onset of the first frost, the rose bushes enter a state of dormancy. However, after the air warms up again on the street and the temperature is above 0 degrees, the bushes begin to wake up, while a resumption of sap flow is observed in them. After it gets cold outside again to minus 3 degrees, the juice freezes in the shoots, which leads to tissue rupture. As a result, frost holes appear, which are cracks of considerable length, inside of which there is ice. In these places where there is damage, pathogenic microbes easily penetrate into the tissues. As a result, with the subsequent thaw, the active development of the disease may begin. In order to protect roses from frost damage and disease damage, you will need to create a dry shelter. In it, the juice that can flow out of the cracks formed on the shoots dries quickly, which is why the wounds are easily tightened.

How to feed roses in the fall.

There are various fall dressings for roses, we offer you 2 recipes that you can easily make yourself.

Recipe 1

In a 10-liter bucket, they are bred:

  • potassium monophosphate - 16 g
  • superphosphate - 15 g
  • water - 10 liters.

Recipe 2

  • potassium sulfate - 10 g
  • superphosphate - 25 g
  • boric acid - 2.5 g
  • water - 10 liters.

One bucket with such a top dressing is enough to peel roses in a 4 square meter flower bed.

In early September, you need to inspect all the bushes and determine their condition. If the leaves are red, it means that the bush is in a state of growth and is not ready for winter. No need to pick faded rosebuds. The seeds will begin to ripen, and the bush will understand that the flowering period is over and it is necessary to prepare for winter. Next comes the stage of pruning the bush.

Pruning roses for the winter - is it necessary to do it?

Gardeners argue about the need to prune roses before the onset of cold weather. Many people think it is best to prune in the spring when the plant can sprout freshly immediately. And yet the risk of decay of non-lignified shoots is too great to leave them for the winter.

Moreover, weak shoots and unopened buds will still die before spring, and it makes no sense to preserve them.

How to properly prune roses for the winter to strengthen the bush and make it grow actively with the arrival of warmth?

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering the roses, it is necessary to carry out the following measures to prepare the "queen of flowers" for winter:

  • Feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
  • Spend autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

By the way! The site already has a detailed article about autumn pruning roses for the winter.

  • Cover the sections with garden pitch or even better with RanNet paste.
  • Pick up all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and breaking off the leaves), since it is a source of infections.
  • Treat against diseases and pests... For example, you can spray copper-containing preparations (copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or with specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oxyhom. and etc.

Important! If you cover roses with leaves, or the plant is sick, then treatment is required.

  • Spud - cover the base of the bush with dry earth or sand.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone has a different land, climate (weather). For example, some flower growers believe that a hillock in the middle lane (Moscow region) is a boon for roses, because they vomit out much more often than freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses are often pushed.

  • Bend to the ground and secure (eg using a metal scraper).

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain, then it rains, then thaws, it is better to put arcs, throw on a spunbond on top, and leave air vents on the sides. As soon as the cold strikes, the vents should be closed.

  • Shelter.

Important! Shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

Climbing rose - pruning and bending

It is more appropriate to prune such varieties of roses in the spring. Weak and slender shoots should be cut shorter and strong ones half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascading crown, in which in the summer the whole bush will bloom on new shoots completely, and not only its upper part.

When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to maintain their vegetative strength by spring and quickly revive in a lush and blooming crown.

The process of work, and even more so bending down for the winter shelter of a climbing rose, is traumatic - they have large, often located thorns. For this reason, your equipment should be reliable, from goggles to heavy gloves, especially all other clothing.

Shelter roses for the winter

Spray roses

Shelter of roses is a very important and responsible event; not only health, appearance and flowering time, but also the very life of roses depend on its correct implementation.

In most cases, roses die precisely in winter, and not so much from frost as from damping out and disease, due to improper shelter.

Very often, unsuccessful shelter and the death of roses in winter lead to the fact that gardeners completely refuse to grow roses and deprive themselves of great joy and beauty.

But it is not very difficult to cover roses, you just need to understand what the winter hardiness of roses depends on, from which the rose dies in winter, and how to prevent this, to maintain the correct timing of shelter and disclosure of plants.

Recently, when creating new varieties of roses, much attention has been paid to winter hardiness and their resistance to unfavorable conditions, sometimes even to the detriment of the size of the flower and the degree of doubleness. In Germany, such roses are marked with the ADR sign, but the indicated winter hardiness and resistance of these roses does not mean at all that they will winter with us without shelter.

For the wintering of a particular rose in specific conditions, its age and condition, damage by diseases, the weather of the past summer and autumn are very important. The possibility of wintering roses under one or another shelter is greatly influenced by the weather of the coming winter (thickness of snow cover, temperature, presence of thaws, etc.), which cannot be foreseen. But it is necessary to cover the roses in such a way that the shelter does not harm them under any weather conditions. It is also necessary to take into account local conditions: the type of soil, illumination at the planting site, the possibility of stagnant water there, the proximity of buildings, etc.

By weighing all these factors, the gardener must decide which roses to grow and how to cover them. We have only species roses that are truly winter-hardy - rose hips and their garden forms and varieties, mainly rugosa varieties, which belong to the group of park roses. But even they can freeze over in frosty years to the level of snow and winter reliably when bending down. Low ground cover roses can also hibernate without shelter. Roses of other groups need a mandatory shelter.

Shelter dates for roses

There is considerable disagreement about the timing of shelter in the literature, but most agree that one should not rush to shelter roses, and they need to be sheltered when stable cold weather sets in -5 ... -6 ° С, and according to some sources, -8 ... ... However, in the Leningrad region, this approach is not applicable, since the weather in late autumn and early winter is very unstable, low negative temperatures are replaced by positive ones and, while waiting for stable cold weather to establish, you can skip the optimal time for sheltering roses.

High air humidity, frequent rains and wet snow do not allow keeping the rose garden dry, and you cannot cover raw roses with foil. On the other hand, under an air-dry shelter with sufficient ventilation through the air left behind, the rose thrives at any temperature above or below zero. Covering with spruce branches and non-woven material (spunbond) also does not affect the condition of the roses.

Why, then, is it impossible to cover the roses in the early stages, for example, in early October, in dry weather? This cannot be done because the roses are pruned before the shelter, and in prolonged warm weather, early pruning causes the dormant buds to germinate. With further wintering, young shoots will freeze, rot, decay can be transmitted to the neck, and the rose can die. Thus, the timing of the shelter should be determined by the timing of the autumn pruning of roses.

Through long-term observations, it was found that when pruning roses in late October - early November, no germination occurs in St. Petersburg. Periods of warm weather during this time are short, and frosts always begin in November. Therefore, the optimal time for sheltering roses is the end of October - early November. It is advisable to shelter in dry weather before snow falls.

Preparing roses for winter

Hybrid tea rose Limbo

About a month before the shelter, you need to start preparing roses for winter. Rosaries need to be cleared of weeds and summer plants growing next to roses, you can spud them at this time (cover the base of the bushes with earth, sand). Do not spud with peat, humus, fallen leaves. Early hilling prevents frost cracks from forming in the lower part of the bush, where they are most dangerous.

Hilling after the onset of frost can lead to the penetration of infection from the ground through frost holes, the development of diseases with further shelter and the death of plants. To prevent diseases in winter, especially "infectious burn", before hilling, I paint the lower part of the stems and forks to the level of hilling or slightly higher, as well as all defects on the shoots with water-based paint with the addition of copper oxychloride.

It is better to use a special garden paint, but you can use any paint. In no case should you prune the roses at this time, as this can cause the growth of new shoots that are not capable of wintering. It is advisable to pinch the tops of the growing shoots at the end of August and remove the buds. If an air-dry shelter is subsequently used, it is advisable to dry the rose garden by installing a polyethylene roof over it.

Pruning roses is carried out directly in front of the shelter. Roses that cannot be cut short must be tilted. It is advisable to tear off the leaves from the roses; with an air-dry shelter, this must be done.

Shelter methods

There are many options for hiding roses, each does it differently. But it is very important to do this so that the shelter takes into account the peculiarities of the climate and possible weather options. The main principle is “do no harm”. It is completely unsuitable for our conditions to cover roses in an upright position (for example, climbing roses on supports), backfilling them with fallen leaves and other similar materials.

In our climate, we can offer two fundamentally different approaches to sheltering roses. The first is a shelter using water and breathable materials: spruce branches, nonwovens (spunbond, lutrasil), without the use of film. The second is the shelter of roses using waterproof materials (film, roofing felt, polycarbonate) - "air-dry shelter".

The first method of shelter can be called "air-wet", it does not require preliminary drying of the rose garden, the use of only dry materials. During the fall and winter, this shelter gets wet and dries up naturally. It is very important here to create an air gap that does not allow the snow to press the roses to the ground. For this, spruce branches are traditionally used, but if it is absent or lacking, it is possible to create a low support from rails laid on supports, metal arches or lattice boxes. From above, the roses are covered with a double layer of thick non-woven material along the support. Such a shelter is not critical to the timing of the opening of roses, does not require airing.

1 - inclined shoots
2 - hilling
3 - insulation from ground (board)
4 - support under the shelter
5 - slats
6 - lutrasil
7 - stone

The second method - an air-dry shelter consists of a frame on which insulating materials are reinforced. The frame is covered from above with a waterproof material such as plastic wrap. As a frame, you can use a structure of sufficiently thick metal arcs, wooden supports with shields superimposed on them, boxes, etc. The frame must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the snow.

As an insulating material, you can use fabric (for example, rugs made from old clothes), non-woven material folded in several layers. When choosing materials, one should avoid materials that would attract mice. The main feature of this method is the need to dry the rose garden, use only dry materials. Leaves from roses and all extraneous plants from the rose garden should be removed so as not to increase the humidity. To make it easier to break off the leaves, you can spray them with 3% copper sulfate a few days before the shelter, this will also disinfect the roses.

With an air-dry shelter, it is not necessary to spud the roses, but if you do this, then only with dry earth or sand. If it was not possible to pre-dry the soil in the rose garden, you need to cover the entire surface with dry earth with a layer of 3-5 cm (you need to dry it in advance, take their greenhouses). The ends of the shelters must not be covered with foil. When sheltering in warm weather, the ends can be left open for ventilation, and later covered with lutrasil in several layers.

After a cold snap and snow falls, the ends can be covered with a film, but it is better not to close the air vents with polyethylene for the winter, then you will not have to air the rose garden in early spring. Thick lutrasil, placed under the film, not only insulates the roses, but also shades them, does not allow the shelter to turn into a greenhouse in early spring.

1 - color of shoots
2 - hilling
3 - dry land
4 - pruning in front of cover
5 - lutrasil or spruce branches
6 - frame
7 - insulation material
8 - polyethylene
9 - stone.

It is very important to understand that improper cover, especially with the use of film, not only does not bring benefits, but can cause great harm, up to the death of plants. When covering with a film, the decisive factor is the dryness of the cover.

A simplified method of sheltering roses is quite justified for more resistant varieties, in warmer regions, under favorable wintering conditions: when located in a warmer, dry area, where water does not get from roofs, etc., with good snow cover and not too low winter temperature. The most reliable in any winter weather is a properly carried out air-dry shelter of roses.

A rosary prepared for shelter. Hybrid tea roses were cut, supports were installed.

Watch the video: Winter Care for Knock Out and Drift Roses